中文体育类核心期刊

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中国高校百佳科技期刊

国内外速度攀岩精英运动员技术特征对比分析

Contrast Analysis of the Technical Features for Chinese and Foreign Elite Speed Climbers

    摘要
  • 摘要:
    目的 对比分析国内外速度攀岩精英运动员比赛技术特征及差异，为国内精英运动员的专项训练提供理论依据。
    方法 运用二维运动学分析法采集2018—2020年攀岩世锦赛、攀岩世界杯赛和中国攀岩联赛中速度攀岩决赛男女前4名运动员比赛的反应时、触点特征、分段速度以及失误特征指标。
    结果 速度攀岩精英运动员反应时与比赛成绩的相关系数为0.33（P<0.01），同性别的国内外运动员间无显著差异（P>0.05）。多数四肢触点特征指标与比赛成绩具有一定程度的相关关系（0.95>r>0.35，−0.71>r>−0.90，P<0.01），国内运动员多个肢体的触点时间和动作频率指标表现弱于国外运动员（P<0.05）。国内外男子和国外女子运动员的Vmax阶段为8—10号点，国内女子运动员的Vmax阶段为7—8号点；国内男子运动员在1—3、6—7号点，女子运动员在1—3、6—7、8—10和13—20号点的速度显著较低（P≤0.03）。国内外男子运动员的失误次数发生率分别为68.18%和60.00%，失误后胜赛率分别为20.00%和21.70%，加速阶段的失误风险分别为6.07%/m和2.50%/m，速度保持阶段的失误风险分别为3.50%/m和4.62%/m；国内外女子运动员的失误次数发生率分别为28.95%和38.00%，失误后胜赛率分别为0和23.53%，加速阶段的失误风险分别为1.88%/m和2.50%/m，速度保持阶段的失误风险分别为1.22%/m和2.31%/m。
    结论 国内外速度攀岩精英运动员的反应时与比赛成绩间具有低度的相关关系，且同性别的国内外精英运动员间无显著差异；国内男子运动员的速度劣势位于加速阶段，国内女子运动员在速度保持阶段的速度劣势更加明显；国内运动员四肢触点时间较长，动作频率较低，失误过多、过早，失误后快速调整能力较弱。

     

    Abstract:
    Objective It is to analyze the technical features and differences of Chinese and foreign elite speed climbers and provide valuable references for the training of Chinese elite speed climbers.
    Methods The competition videos of the top four male and female athletes in the speed climbing finals of the 2018-2020 World Climbing Championships, the World Cup and the China Climbing League were screened. The two-dimensional kinematics analysis method were used to quantitatively analyze the reaction time, contact characteristics, segmental speed and failure feature.
    Results The correlation coefficient between reaction time and performance of elite athletes was 0.33 (P<0.01), without significant difference between Chinese and foreign athletes of the same sex (P>0.05). The value of contact time had a certain degree of correlation with performance (0.95>r>0.35, −0.71>r>−0.90, P<0.01) and the contact time and movement frequency indexes of Chinese athletes were weaker than those of foreign athletes (P<0.05). The Vmax stage of Chinese and foreign male and foreign female athletes appeared on holds 8–10, and The Vmax stage of Chinese female athletes appeared on holds 7–8. The speed of Chinese male and female athletes were significantly lower than that of foreign athletes on holds 1–3, 6–7 and 1–3, 6–7, 8–10, 13–20, respectively (P≤0.03). The failure number rates of male athletes of Chinese and foreign athletes were 68.18% and 60.00% respectively, and the winning rates after failure were 20.00% and 21.70% respectively, the failure risk in the acceleration stage was 6.07%/m and 2.50%/m, respectively, and the failure risk in the speed holding stage was 3.50%/m and 4.62%/m, respectively. The failure number rates of female athletes of Chinese and foreign athletes were 28.95% and 38.00% respectively, and the winning rates after failure were 0 and 23.53% respectively, the failure risk in the acceleration stage was 1.88%/m and 2.50%/m, respectively, and the failure risk in the speed holding stage was 1.22%/m and 2.31%/m, respectively.
    Conclusions There is a weak correlation between reaction time and performance. The speed disadvantage stage of Chinese male athletes is the acceleration stage. The speed disadvantage of Chinese female athletes in the speed holding stage is more marked than that in the acceleration stage. The contact time of limbs is longer and the movement frequency is lower with too many and early failures. Meanwhile the quick adjustment ability after the failures is weak.

     

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