Abstract:
Objective It is to analyze the technical features and differences of Chinese and foreign elite speed climbers and provide valuable references for the training of Chinese elite speed climbers.
Methods The competition videos of the top four male and female athletes in the speed climbing finals of the 2018-2020 World Climbing Championships, the World Cup and the China Climbing League were screened. The two-dimensional kinematics analysis method were used to quantitatively analyze the reaction time, contact characteristics, segmental speed and failure feature.
Results The correlation coefficient between reaction time and performance of elite athletes was 0.33 (P<0.01), without significant difference between Chinese and foreign athletes of the same sex (P>0.05). The value of contact time had a certain degree of correlation with performance (0.95>r>0.35, −0.71>r>−0.90, P<0.01) and the contact time and movement frequency indexes of Chinese athletes were weaker than those of foreign athletes (P<0.05). The Vmax stage of Chinese and foreign male and foreign female athletes appeared on holds 8–10, and The Vmax stage of Chinese female athletes appeared on holds 7–8. The speed of Chinese male and female athletes were significantly lower than that of foreign athletes on holds 1–3, 6–7 and 1–3, 6–7, 8–10, 13–20, respectively (P≤0.03). The failure number rates of male athletes of Chinese and foreign athletes were 68.18% and 60.00% respectively, and the winning rates after failure were 20.00% and 21.70% respectively, the failure risk in the acceleration stage was 6.07%/m and 2.50%/m, respectively, and the failure risk in the speed holding stage was 3.50%/m and 4.62%/m, respectively. The failure number rates of female athletes of Chinese and foreign athletes were 28.95% and 38.00% respectively, and the winning rates after failure were 0 and 23.53% respectively, the failure risk in the acceleration stage was 1.88%/m and 2.50%/m, respectively, and the failure risk in the speed holding stage was 1.22%/m and 2.31%/m, respectively.
Conclusions There is a weak correlation between reaction time and performance. The speed disadvantage stage of Chinese male athletes is the acceleration stage. The speed disadvantage of Chinese female athletes in the speed holding stage is more marked than that in the acceleration stage. The contact time of limbs is longer and the movement frequency is lower with too many and early failures. Meanwhile the quick adjustment ability after the failures is weak.
下载: